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When assembling a ranking of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. But, nestled prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am totally astonished,” says the proprietor, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small shop securing such a lofty position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

It is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This philosophy is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he were in a position of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel really pleased of our shop and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would support her to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own walls. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this gastronomic achievement.